Silver Dreams Labradors

We have compiled a list of things you may want to have before the arrival of your new pup.

Food:

We feed "The Pride" (black bag) to all of our dogs and pups, (the name above is a link), they have a dealer locater on their website that will tell you if there is a store/dealer in your area.  We will give you a gallon ziplock bag of "The Pride" when you pickup your pup, if you cannot find this food in your area, it is best to mix the food we give you with the new food of your choice (in order to avoid stomach upset).

Place a small amount of the new food with the pups regular (The Pride) food and then increase the amount of the new food slowly. 

You can also add vanilla or unflavored yogurt to their food, or cottage cheese (and we have even given our dogs Kefir in a pinch) to ease stomach discomfort or to entice them to eat if they are not liking their new food.  In the past we have used Purina One/Adult (not puppy) as recommended by our vet and also a friend who is a breeder.  We were told it makes the pups grow too quickly and it's not good for lab bodies to grow that quickly.

Slow and steady wins the race.

 Wire Dog Crate

Like the one found here. Dog crate This one is nice because it has a divider and you don't have to purchase a larger size for when your pup gets bigger.

We feel that they are easier to clean because the bottom tray is removable. You can also purchase pads/beds that fit inside the crate, but you may want to use something simple at first, like a towel or small blanket that's easily washable, until your pup is using the bathroom outside reliably. (you may be washing it daily).  Some crates even offer a side door as well as the front door, which helps when you need to clean or they get bigger...whichever comes first.

We feel that all pups should be trained to lay quietly in a crate and should be crate trained as early as possible.  It ends up being a place they can go to wind down or relax and it's THEIR place.  It's a lifesaver, and much less traumatic on them if they have to stay overnight at a friends house, or at the vet. 

They will be much more comfortable in a place they are used to.  And if they have to go to the vet overnight, they won't be terrified of being locked in a cage.  Of course it will still be a strange place, but if they are used to a crate, it takes away some of the fear factor. 

The first few nights of a new pup getting used to a crate are a little noisy, (yes, we've all been through it, and you wonder how you will ever survive or how such a tiny pup can make so much noise) but we have found that if we set the crate up beside the bed, where the pup can see you, the transition is much easier.  We had one pup that quieted down only after we took a dark curtain and hung it over the crate (like you would do a birdcage) but left a little area open for it to see us.  Pup almost immediately was quiet and went to sleep, our sanity was saved. :)

They are also much easier to housebreak while using a crate.  As a rule, they will need to go outside as soon as they eat and as soon as they wake up, of course there will be accidents, but many can be prevented with the use of a crate. Always take them outside before bedtime, and if they start whining in the middle of the night after sleeping, it's a sure signal they need to go out.  Some pups will whine just to be whining, ignore it as much as possible if you know without a shadow of a doubt that they don't need to use the bathroom, otherwise quietly take them outside, it's not playtime, especially if you want to go back to sleep anytime soon. 

If your pup is whining just for attention and  you can't ignore the attention whining, try to wait until they are quiet (if possible) for a few moments before opening the kennel.  If they associate whining with you running to let them out, they are going to keep on whining. 

Of course, if you feel the pup is truly in distress or sick, don't ignore him. 

And unless you like having a 60-90lb dog in the bed with you, it's best to not ever start letting them get in your bed (or on the furniture).  Some people don't mind, but our bed/sofa is just not large enough for 4 large dogs, so our dogs know that the bed and furniture are off limits. 

It is much easier to set limits for your pup when they are small.

Adjustable nylon collar/lead

The harness type is good when they are just learning to walk on a lead, but they should be removed when not in use...your puppy is sure to chew on it.

A gentle lead (the type that the leash hooks at the back) is good for when they get bigger, but if you buy one too soon, they will outgrow it quickly, and they are expensive. The harness type works well and is more cost effective for younger pups.

Regular nylon collar and nametag.

This is better option to leave on your pup, but not very good for teaching them to walk properly on a leash.  You should be able to slip a couple of fingers under the coller easily, but not be able to pull it over their ears.  The harness type can be slipped over this when you need to go out for a walk.  This is the collar that should contain their nametag and your information should your pup get lost.  It's a horrible feeling to lose your pup, but knowing that they have important infomation attached to them is much better than nothing at all.  Most Walmarts have a tag making machine available as soon as you walk in the door, it comes with the ring to attach it directly to your pups collar.  You can also get them at the larger pet supply stores (more expensive) and unless you want to hear constant jingling (which can be useful for finding your pup in the dark) you may want to purchase the optional rubber noise stopper that goes around the tag that is also available (for some tags, but not all) at the same machine.

Tennis Balls

Regular yellow tennis balls, also at Walmart,  in the sporting section.  Our dogs have all started to fetch almost as soon as they arrived at our home.  Puppies love them! If you find your pup having trouble picking up the basic yellow ones, you can purchase a cheaper version at some at the larger pet stores for less that $1.00 each.  They are not as durable as the yellow tennis balls,  they are more fuzzy and they are easier for the pup to pick up because they can grab the fuzz.  When your pup gets bigger, the cheaper tennis ball won't stand a chance, and when your pup is full grown, the yellow tennis balls won't either.  Maybe a Kong ball would be good at that point.  Any kind of squeaky ball and your pup will drive you insane... you have been warned :)

A tennis ball thrower (similar to the one in this link) is almost a necessity, the one we use is a Chuckit brand, we purchased the size especially for tennis balls (they make other sizes too) mostly because regular tennis balls are cheaper and easily found just about anywhere.  The Chuckit is the absolute best money we have spent on a toy for our dogs...especially after the doggie slobber is so bad that you can't hold the ball to throw it.  You will thank me a hundred times over.... seriously!!!  Read the reviews from the link above.  No, I am not affiliated (maybe I should be) I am just a very very satisfied customer of this product.

Puppy pads/Newspaper

These are good in a pinch if you need them.  Pups will chew on both. 

It is much more economical to go to your home improvement store, Home Depot is where we got ours, and pickup a large roll of flooring protection paper or a larger roll here  ... it's cheap and lasts quite a long time, just cut off what you need, let the pup use it and then toss it.  Usually found somewhere near the painting section or the dropcloths, it comes in large rolls like wrapping paper, only heavier.  I think it's supposed to be used for covering flooring when you are having construction or painting done in a room, but it also works great for puppies.  It's heavy and doesn't fall apart easy when wet.  A roll is around $12 (i think) Lasts much longer than puppy pads, and you can cover larger areas. I think you can also use self adhesive roll plastic that you cover carpet with, but we never have because we don't have any carpet.

Seat protector for your car

Here

Invaluable, we love ours, and the waterproof ones are really nice if the pup has an accident. We have tried blankets and towels in the past, but they fall off the seat and if the pup has an accident, it goes right through.

Toys:

Pups love to chew, and they will chew on anything.  Its better for them to have toys than your shoes or electrical cords.  Rope toys are great (we will give you one) The best thing we have found out is that if you don't want them to chew on your shoes, don't give them any type of shoe to chew on... they don't know the difference between your new expensive shoes and the old sneaker you gave them to play with.  Shoes are an unacceptable toy at our house.

Bones:

Most people already know that chicken bones are harmful.  Rawhide is also a choking hazard.  Keep an eye on pups with bones... we don't want your little guy/girl getting choked.

Ice:

Our dogs love ice... yes ice...seems to be helpful when teething, and they love the crunch.  Be careful of very large chunks with smaller puppies, but ours have never had a problem.  They almost beg for ice if you go to the freezer.

Clicker Training/Clicker

Labs love food, and this makes it very easy to clicker train them.  Clicker training is very easy and inexpensive and it's a great way to train your pup.  Click = food and labs will do anything for food.  There is a world of training possibilities and tricks awaiting. 

Books are helpful and usually found either at your local library or you can purchase them from amazon.  Karen Pryor has a website called Clicker Training.com  if you would like more information, just click on her name. (not affiliated) There is quite a bit of info on clicker training available from other sites as well.

Usually you can purchase a clicker for about a $1.00 (or so) up at the cash registers at petsmart or petco, they have more expensive ones with the dog stuff, but if you just want to try it out, the cheap ones work just as well... just make sure to test it out (the cheaper ones) before you leave the store :)

Stairs

Teaching your pup to go up and down stairs is a must, and should be one of the first things they should learn while they are young.  Trust me, trying to get a terrified large dog up and down stairs is not only dangerous but very exhausting.

When they are very small, you almost have to coax them one step at a time, be careful not to let them slip and fall down the stairs, once they learn that the stairs are not some terrible monster coming to eat them, most pups will do great. Some never get used to stairs, just like people they have fears that they can't conquer easily, but with some work, they will be able to cope and you never know when you may have a set of stairs facing you, even if they aren't in your own home.  Stay as positive as possible and they will eventually trust you enough to take them anywhere.  This applies to many training lessons.

Pet Store Trips

We do not allow any of our dogs/pups to walk around the pet store or vets office until they have all their vaccinations.  We don't take chances with the health of our dogs.  We may be overprotective, but our dogs are our family.  If a pup goes with us, we will either carry them in our arms or place them in a buggy.  We also try to limit the amount of petting (if that's possible with a puppy) Most people will ask, others just walk right up and stick their hands on your pup.  If you are concerned about this happening, wait until the pup is older before taking them to pet stores.

Carry them if possible into their vet appointments, vets offices are usually clean, but they don't clean after every sick pup that comes in, so don't be fanatical, but cautious is good, sick pups are no fun.

Yes, I know, germs are everywhere, and there is no 100% foolproof way of avoiding them.  I am just more cautious around places that are frequented by many dogs until my pups have had their shots. 

After their shots, my dogs can and do go anywhere and everywhere we go.

Helpful Tips:

If your pup does have an accident on your cloth seat or your cloth furniture or rug.  You can safely use rubbing alcohol on fabric or cloth... be careful and test on wool rugs or leather/synthetic leather first.  Rubbing alcohol is much better than febreeze or upholstery or rug cleaner because it leaves no residue and it removes odors without covering them up.

Residue from these cleaners (rug/upholsery cleaners) attracts dirt back to the area faster.  Of course the manufacturer doesn't tell you that, and some even contain optical brighteners, which will make the stain appear lighter at the time.  (Ever noticed why when you clean a stain that it comes back in a week??? This is why)

Some of these chemical can also be potentially harmful to your pet, so use with caution.   

Just remember  when using rubbing alcohol (or any cleaner) to use a white towel,  pour  the alcohol on the stain, and if possible,  step on the towel to remove as much of the moisture as possible (with shoes on of course unless you want wet socks), then blot the area, do not rub. Allow to air dry.

If your pup keeps going to the same area, you can use a little vinegar to deter them, they usually don't like the smell and will not go back there.  We keep a spray bottle of both alcohol and vinegar handy.

All of the product links are just suggestions of items that we have found to be helpful.  We are not affiliated with any of the companies, nor do we receive any money from recommending them.  Of course there are other choices depending on your preferences, these are just suggestions. :)